Bread and Molasses

I got lucky. Get your minds out of the gutter; it’s not that kind of blog… I got lucky because I managed to get last minute reservations to the infamous Cabane à sucre Au Pied de Cochon. You know the one, right?  It’s run by Martin Picard, who also owns the Duluth Street restaurant by the same name and stars in “The Wild Chef” on the Food Network. He’s known for his over the top, no-compromising, full-fat cuisine, as well as his extensive use of foie gras in the traditional Québécois dishes he serves up. When I got the email explaining how they had cancellations and a few open spots for this year, I was ecstatic! So were the seven other diners who joined me on Saturday night for the real epic mealtime.

I had no idea what to expect but the experience was everything I hoped it would be: a supped up version of a traditional Cabane à sucre with all the classics, only better. If you are expecting a fancy place with white table clothes, you’ll be disappointed. It’s nitty gritty and focused on the food. You’re sitting at a rectangular table on a bench in what seems like a nicely-decorated old barn with hordes of people including loud “mononcles” and kids. We’re definitely not in Old Montreal anymore, Toto. But isn’t that what the Cabane à sucre is all about? Good food that highlights maple products – hold the etiquette. Maybe that’s the only critique I can give this Cabane à sucre: it was a little light on the maple… The pork stole the show, from the souffléed oreilles de crisse to the roasted pork shoulder, it overshadowed everything else.

They serve a set +10-course menu (yes, more than 10 courses!) and family style dishes in the centre of the table, which works out nicely because you get to taste a little of everything while choosing your own portion size. With that in mind, try to gather up a group of friends – I would say eight works perfectly – so that you can all sit comfortably together at one table without being crammed. It gets hot as heck in there! And PLEASE, ladies, nix the heels…

So what’s the bottom line? I say if you are lucky enough to get a reservation, jump on it! For a fixed price of $54 per person, I feel like I got more than my money’s worth. But know what you’re getting yourself into. The presentation of some of the dishes is meant to impress… or repulse depending on your view point. Whole Cornish hens, including the heads and feet, are served on a platter. I think that as long as you’re not a vegetarian (duh!) or too light-heated, you’ll enjoy the experience. Because that’s just what it is: an extra-ordinary dining experience.

THE FEAST

Entrées

Pea soup with chunks of foie gras.

Oysters with salt water and maple jelly

Green salad with oreilles de crisse, cheddar and ham.

Maple buckwheat pancakes with smoked sturgeon and crème fraîche.

I forgot to snap a picture of the cretons-filled maki. What a shame! It was was a big hit both presentation and taste-wise.

Main courses

Maple glazed Cornish hens (presentation leaves little room for doubt...) with potato gnocchi.

The most tender and juicy, fall-off-the-bone roast pork shoulder. Smoked for 12 hours and served with a beer-reduction gravy.

Lobster omelet soufflé

For an extra $20, they offer a tourtière with homemade ketchup. We ordered it, but were happy they forgot to serve it to us in the end… Do like our buddy JCo and get one to go.

Desserts

Tarte tatin. Buttery and flaky crust.

Pancakes fried in duck fat and soaking in maple syrup. What's not to love, I ask you?

Iced nougat with chocolate ganache and maple syrup cotton candy.

They also served us the classic “tire d’érable” on a bed of snow. It was awesome, but didn’t think you really needed a picture. You get the idea.

Cabane à sucre Au Pied de Cochon
They take reservations for the 2012 maple season as of December 1st, 2011. www.cabaneasucreaupieddecochon.com